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2001 Night Train fuel leak

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doug rooney

Member
Just got the bike about a month ago and is leaking bad out the fuel line under the tank. I'm thinking just O rings #11323. Book says it is also a check valve there. Any clues before I take it apart and where to get the parts with no dealer near? Thanks, Doug
 
Correct me if I am mistaken, I'm trying to save doug some aggravation. I changed the o-ring that makes contact with the tank and it still leaked. Seemed to me the leak was coming from lower down. It leaked worse when I moved it around while riding. Isn't there another o-ring inside the swivel fitting that can't be replaced? I ordered the whole fitting and replaced it as a unit.

sanec1 said:
Correct me if I am mistaken, I'm trying to save doug some aggravation. I changed the o-ring that makes contact with the tank and it still leaked. Seemed to me the leak was coming from lower down. It leaked worse when I moved it around while riding. Isn't there another o-ring inside the swivel fitting that can't be replaced? I ordered the whole fitting and replaced it as a unit.
Click to expand...

Anyone else care to comment? The leak on my FI RK was not at the tank. Both of my fuel lines started leaking within weeks of each other. If I could have replaced o-rings I would have liked to know about it. The parts manual at my mechanics showed only the o-ring at the tank. Can we save doug some money? 2 o-rings at .50 cents vs. 2 supply and return lines for $500!

OK, I hate when I answer my own questions (yer never alone with a schizophrenic). I did a search on fuel line leaks and there was some pics which showed the fuel line detached from the quik-disconnect. It looked like the o-ring had flattened out and could easily be replaced. On my RK it is more like a flare fitting that tightens up onto the tank with a wrench and is sealed at the tank with an o-ring. Wish I had the quik-disconnect. Much cheaper.
 
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Sanec: Mine is leaking from the quik-connect. The book says 2 O rings in it but I only found one. My eyes weren't good enough to see 2 O ring grooves in there but I think that's my problem. The bike was all repainted and customized and the previous owner likely neglected to put the 2nd ring in or used the old one. In any event, I have ordered 2 from a Harley dealer at 12 cents apiece. Napa and Carquest didn't have a match locally and I was afraid to try and measure it as it would seem it should be exact size. Not ready to buy all new stuff when just O rings are likely the trouble. Thanks, Doug
 
Has anyone successfully taken the leaky swivvel apart?

Does anyone provide a replacement line for less than $50?

Can I thow away the Harely swivvel and replace with 3/8 IPS pipe from Home Depot?

This is a wide spread problem people. Can we get and post a realistic solution (Not $500)?
 
I'm surprised someone here with some experience hasn't offered up some assistance. Usually thats what this site is all about. Maybe the answer is in the "tech tips" section so people are reluctant to help.

For the swivel part of the supply and return lines (1999 Road King) I couldn't see a way of getting at the o-rings inside the fitting. The supply line was replaced with a rubber line identical to the original for about $170. When the return started to leak I had to purchase a braided stainless steel line that was around $270. (CDN)

I thought about trying to replace the fitting with something homemade too but I was heading out for my summer vacation in a couple of days and decided to bite the bullet. The supply side is 50 psi, return 3.

You may be able to remove the fitting on the tank and switch over to quik-disconnect if you have the connections that I do to be able to change o-rings only down the road instead of the whole line.
 
Sanec1, don't have experience with your EFI setup, but 1.) you should run the bike, pull the EFI relay so the gas on the high pressure side runs out, do not want to release that fitting with 50 psi fuel in there. 2.) shut down and pull main fuse, no need for sparks now. 3.) you stated that a manual was nearby, did you review how the hoses are removed, some require special tools to remove, others are compression fittings and o-rings or combination of both...some even have a button that releases the fittings (imagine that...!). 4.) once apart, do the o-ring(s) look like they have a flat spot? You may have to use a micrometer to get the exact dimensions. Just because it looks the same size does not mean it is correct when installed. 50 psi of fuel can squeeze thru VERY easily if not right. 5) make sure it is OIL/GAS resistant, a RUBBER one will NOT do it, VITTON or NEOPRENE type WILL.
 
Thanks NEWHD74FAN. On 99 Models there is a simple hex nut to unscrew. There are o-rings that seal against the fitting connected directly into the tank. Still not sure if there is a replaceable o-ring inside the piece with the 3/4 nut. That is the burning question here.

On 2000-2001 pull up on the chrome sleeve on the quik-dissconnect fitting under the tank. It's plastic, be gentle.

2002 has a quik disconnect on the left side of the tank at the bottom. Just push up towards the tank to release.

I'm not sure its necessary due to check valves but step one for me was draining the tanks.

Doug, looks like you get the cheap repair with the o-rings. Do the supply and return at the same time. Chances are the other one will start to leak soon.
 
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The O-Ring is not the issue. I replaced mine with Harley provided ones with no effect.

The issue is the factory swaged swivvel.

With cool weather, my swivvel dumped a cup of gas a minute this morning. I cut it off and replaced it with a 3/8-in IPS x 1/4 barb and hose clamp. The 3/8 IPS leaks even with 10 wraps Teflon but only a few drips a minute. The experiment shows the complex cone with O-Ring arrangement is a decoy and unneccessary. The threaded part is a very obscure METRIC M18X1.5, even in Canada I bet. M18 is rare and 1.5 is the even more obscure fine thread version. The good news is the M18X1.5 is designed to be liquid tight without any teflon or thread compound. I'll believe it when I see it. I've asked a machine shop to make up the part, an M18X1.5 to 1/4" barb adapter. It will even have the 7mm injector test port on the bottom. If this works out, I will make 50 or so and provide them to poor suckers like us at a reasonable price so we can ride without risking our lives and poluting the air.

One last point. I am convinced this part is totally contrived to make after sale profits. The (EDIT) is, if any of us have trouble going to Sturigis or similar trips, we are gonna be sidelined way longer than neccessary. M18X1.5 coulda so easily been a common 3/8". My temporary fix cost $7. The lowest price I've found anywhere is over $150.

Please read and understand the info in this link...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community

 
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