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110 hd or 113 s/s

IR Rick

Active Member
oK, I what to go get a new SE UC:s But the (SO) Says NO:small3d023:
So i'm going to have to back door her. I'm thinking of taking the 96 out and put the bigger engine in, So what will i need two switch the 96 to the 110?'
What new parts will i need? to make her a depenable bike:)
 
Hey Rick, your title says 110 hd or 113 s/s? I think I'd go with the s/s. Then again I'm more of an old school guy. I love my bagger but it's got me baffled. I'm learnin all over again. I'm sure greatful I found this site. Nice to see a local guy, I'm east of Sandy, Or. Maybe we should go for a putt?
 
IR Rick
Here you go an engine that will rock your world. Far better build than a S&S great price
All the rigth parts in it not a patch job. 135 HP at rear wheel. And is a bolt in.
HD PN 19220-11 SE120R price 5,495. Just one of many option offered in the other HD book. You know as well as anyone Hd must lable these things race only EPA is watching.
There are other ones in there also.

Thanks for the info. I was leaning with the HD,
and i'm sure the HD parts guys will beable to get me hooked up with the parts
i need. With going with a new engine, i save alot:rofl, because i already have the Master tune, pipes, and A/C.
The other thing I like about keeping my bike, i have already added some Chorme goodies:D I'm trying to convince myself this is the best way to go over a SE scoot:small3d008:
 
i have a 2010 ultra limited. it came with a 103 i test rode it and had hd put a 113 in it. i had it dyno for dependability. #s are 120.3 hp and 114.24 ft.lbs of torqe and i would trust this motor to go anywhere. i used the se 266e cams / 58mil throttle body / hd heavy breather / Rinehart true dauls and this thing screams . i hit a deer in june and dealer was trying to trade my for a se uc. with all the acc. and the motor build i got i really thought that i was going to be down grading by going with the se uc. i have a friend that just bought a 2010 se uc and is so disappointed in it. i smoke him all day long. paint is the only thing he has on me. but this wintere thats gonna change. feel free to pm me if you want more details on the hd 113. also i have all the 103 stuff for sale it only has 12 miles on it and my dealer said that they would fully warranty it if someone buys it
 
Have to say Smitty is right...MOCO has a multi-million dollar R&D facility with plenty of track and street miles to find out what works and what doesn't and has been around a "little" while...! There may be some areas where some aftermarket stuff may eclipse MOCO, but in the final analysis, who sells the most stuff everyday...easy call here! :s
 
#s are 114.24 ft.lbs of torqe and i would trust this motor to go anywhere.

On 9/05/2010 it is 114.24 ft/lbs
On 8/31/2010 it was 128 ft/lbs
On 8/18/2010 it was 124.4 ft/lbs

Just trying to understand. Whatever you did to the bike since 8/31/10 is making it worse. I would put it back to the way it was.
 
Nothing really new about it hidding in the Pro race book under not street Legal
Latter I will post the full specs on it

On the 120, will I need to change the cams, for a more everyday runner.

How will the heat be coming off that much motor:D
 
The New screamin eagle 120 motor.. Thats where it is at..

What I can't understand is this. I can't stand still for more than 90 seconds without my "96" overheating. How on earth do you keep a "120" cool in the middle of the summer? What do you do in stop and go traffic. The size of the combustion chamber has a (huge) direct relationship to produced engine heat. Without changing the way to sink or get rid of this heat, what do you do?

A rich mixture will only do so much. Without air movement I can't see how the really big engines get through a summer day with everyday traffic problems, those really long red lights,etc.
 
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