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09 Rd Glide Exhaust Questions

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dtmccabe

Member
I just got my bike, (09 FLTR) back after doing a Stage II build.
103 Kit (SE flat top pisons)
SE Stage I air cleaner
t-man 555 cam
V&H Dresser Duals
V&H Monster Ovals
SERT break-in map (so far)

The bike has not been dyno'd yet because up her in maine we are running short on nice (not raining) weekends and temps above 30, and of course that ever spiteful "Job", I have that allows me to throw money at the HD, but cuts into riding time

things I Like; Looks are fantastic, sound... louder than stock, but I think it is still quiet enough for those long trips to Bar Harbor and back to the southern part of the state, (400 + miles) or to New Hampshire and the Kangamangus Highway, (White Mt National Forest) 250+ miles round trip. I don't want to wear ear plugs and Maine and NH are imposing loud exhaust laws...

Again the bike is not dyno'd, but I am not seeing the kick at lower rpm I thought I would... It is better, but

So now that I have bored all of you.. Could the (lack) low end torque be because I have the V&H Dresser Duals? Reading through the site I see a very common theme that perhaps this may not have been the right move, due to power loss at lower RPMs. some say it is not noticable? Should I add a SE Heavy Breather, to allow more air flow? Would that make a noticable difference.

I do like the sound, and I seem to have better torque through the corners, Haven't dragged the Monster Ovals Yet. I constantly dragged the floor boards on my 03 FLSTC.

I need to do one more long trip this fall to get her on the dyno. Then I hope to do a trip after that... But winter may not wait....

Any ideas? Maybe I just need to get some miles on her and have the dyno done?

Thanks
 
Don't know of and never heard of a "Break in Map". If anything a break in map should be "over the top" in richness and you would like the feel of it. Your fuel economy would be poor but you would like the feel and it would be good for the engine. Being too rich is always better than being too lean, especially when an engine (or kit) is new.

If you are really missing expected power, I would say the bike is plain just too lean. I would not be breaking it in while under those conditions. That's the last thing you want to do. Get it corrected.
 
I am sure it is not lean, gas mileage is not so good. When I stated I had a break in map, the dealer used a map fro a previous build, using similar parts... so i could break it in...

Got about 300 miles on it, would like to get it to 500 miles before I do the dyno.

I guess I thought I would see a "big" difference. It could be I am not driving it any differently then before the build. I did not mean to say the bike did not have more power, or better pull... I thought I would notice quicker take offs the line, But I don't really think it is that much different from stock.


Maybe I should road test a (96) stock bike in the to see the differnce
 
dtmccabe said:
I thought I would notice quicker take offs the line, But I don't really think it is that much different from stock.
Click to expand...

"Take off from the line" power would require the torque curve to come on strong early on (at a low RPM) in the pull.
You really need to see your actual torque curve to see how fast/early the torque is coming on.

Another thing to remember is the dealerships use of the word "map". In almost all cases, the single word "map" is made up of SEVERAL maps. Not only fuel maps but ignition timing maps as well. Lots of people don't see anything beyond "fuel" maps but the remaining un-looked at maps are Very Very important. You just may have some really "dogie" ignition maps in your bike right now (carried over from someone else) and they just need to be boosted. Poor fuel mileage along with lack of low RPM power supports the theory of retarded spark advance curves being present.

I would say once the tuner sees your actual curves on your actual bike, you will get the hop up tune your looking for.
 
The "break in" maps are usually done to "detune" a new build until the final tuning can be done. You have a bit of cam in there with other stock parts and may not get all the bottom end you were expecting out of the build. This area is where some go overboard in the cam selection thinking they would get more out of the build with more cam, not necessarily so. There's more things to consider when choosing a cam like compression ratios and other key factors. If the right combination isn't chosen, the sum of the parts will not return what is expected because they don "work together".

No doubt when the bike is given the final tune, you will see a better performance, hopefully it's what you were expecting.
PROPER engine building is an art and not just throwing parts together.
 
Over camming or choosing a cam that isn't right for the bike or riding style is one of the biggest mistakes that people make. Quite often someone will choose a cam that comes on at the upper RPM and install it in a touring bike and never really see the potential with the stock heads because you don't ride a touring bike in the upper RPM range much so the cam was a poor choice. Mostly all that is needed in the newer bikes is to get rid of the stock EPA cam and replace it with something that will just wake the engine up and you'll be fine. More than 1/2" lift isn't doing much if other areas are left stock, then there is the fueling problem too especially if you raise the compression to work with the cam. It's a puzzle that has to be assembled correctly to get the results you are looking to get.
 
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