Engine starts and runs great on cold start.high idles fine. After warm up bike will stall when deceleration. Tap the starter and it fires up and will pull on acceleration but start to slow and it stalls. Will stay running if you pull clutch and blip throttle and accelerate. Check engine light is not on. 40,000 miles stock with stage 1 factory flash when delivered new.
03 Heritage Springer EFI stalls on deceleration
- Thread starter Wheelswit
- Start date
ThunderRogue
Active Member
I'd check the IAC. Clean it per Service Manual. That's where I'd start.
Thanks, I’ll look for cleaning information online cause my service manual is 1250 miles away at home. Came down from the great white north to Florida to escape the snow. We are about an hour and half outside Daytona. The last day of Daytona I was about 5 miles back and the bike was running great all day,but stalled as I slowed down for a red light. 3 more traffic lights before the campground and it stalled at every one. Started with no hesitation and ran strong till the next light and stalled again like clockwork. Got some CRC throttle body cleaner so I’ll give it a try. Thanks
Good suggestions, also check for any codes.
liquid_wrench
Well-Known Member
If it was me, I would clean the IAC and dump about 8oz of seafoam in the fuel tank, It could also be bad fuel.
Welcome to the forum from Ohio.
Welcome to the forum from Ohio.
dolt
Well-Known Member
Like stated above, the IAC is more than likely in need of a good cleaning: clean it first and see how it runs . You can use TB cleaner and spray the pintle down, while your doing that, turn the ignition on, then hit the run/kill switch - do not start, you should see the pintle open/close, proceed to shoot in small bursts of TB cleaner. . Place a rag in your throttle body to catch the gunk .
Another thing you should do is get yourself a can of electrical contact cleaner and clean all your connectors , sensors , fuse box , fuses , relays , battery cables , ground points etc . Make sure you pull the main fuse or disconnect the battery before you start . Pay close attention to the connectors under the front of the frame ( stator - regulator ) usually , their caked with oil from doing oil changes .
If you don't replace the crankcase position sensor , pull it out and wipe it off.
As a side note, if you have funds available, get a dyno tune. Find a tuner that will sell a Powervision "license" in lieu of purchasing the hardware/software. The factory flash just adds a bit of fuel across the rpm range and bumps the rev limiter up a bit. You will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make on a Stage I configuration.
Another thing you should do is get yourself a can of electrical contact cleaner and clean all your connectors , sensors , fuse box , fuses , relays , battery cables , ground points etc . Make sure you pull the main fuse or disconnect the battery before you start . Pay close attention to the connectors under the front of the frame ( stator - regulator ) usually , their caked with oil from doing oil changes .
If you don't replace the crankcase position sensor , pull it out and wipe it off.
As a side note, if you have funds available, get a dyno tune. Find a tuner that will sell a Powervision "license" in lieu of purchasing the hardware/software. The factory flash just adds a bit of fuel across the rpm range and bumps the rev limiter up a bit. You will be surprised at the difference a proper tune will make on a Stage I configuration.
RibEye
Senior Member
Among the other suggestions, please consider this one.
The internal plumbing for machines in that production range, the lines that feed the fuel pump tended to rub against the inner surfaces of the fuel tank. Sometimes holes are worn into those lines, to and from the fuel pump, especially from the fuel pump, and headed for the injectors. This causes a reduction in fuel pressure, resulting in stalling, as you describe. When I discovered such, I replaced the tank internal lines and wrapped the old ones around the new ones for protection in future. This has served me well.
Enjoy,
Rich P
The internal plumbing for machines in that production range, the lines that feed the fuel pump tended to rub against the inner surfaces of the fuel tank. Sometimes holes are worn into those lines, to and from the fuel pump, especially from the fuel pump, and headed for the injectors. This causes a reduction in fuel pressure, resulting in stalling, as you describe. When I discovered such, I replaced the tank internal lines and wrapped the old ones around the new ones for protection in future. This has served me well.
Enjoy,
Rich P