Zero Front Brake Pressure

[Jfogle01]

Hey guys, I'm at a loss here. 01 E-Glide Ultra with no pressure at all in the front lever without pumping the lever MANY times, and even then, very little. Take a brake from pumping for about 2 seconds and it's all gone again. I've had the bike for a little over 5 years now and it was always very soft, but still usable. Now, I should say that about 3 weeks ago I swapped out my bars for a set of 16" apes, and that's when it started. Since then, I've bled the brakes the traditional way A LOT, and also tried pushing fluid in from the bottom in the hopes it would push any air naturally up and out of the master reservoir, while also trying to release any air by cracking the master banjo bolt. And today, after trying all of the above....again....i decided to drain the system enough to cleanly remove the master cyl and rebuild it with the harley kit.....still no pressure. I just dont know what else to do atvthis point, and so i decided to try my hands here and ask for some guidence/assistance/help....whatever you want to call it!!!! Thanks in advance to any and all that have some suggestions!

 

[Roadking-1960]

Make sure you bled the system completely , and keep pumping the lever till , it has sufficient pressure. Then without releasing it , use a ty-rap to keep it in as far as possible . Then leave it at least over night, maybe it will work, I 'don't guarantee , but you can give it a try.
If still no pressure , you may wanna rebuild your calipers also .

Good luck !!.

 

[gator508]

If you don't have a mity-vac bleeder I would go get one and try bleeding again..vert inexpensive~ $20. As Roadking-1960 suggests, if bleeding doesn't work a caliper rebuild would be my next step.

 

[ThunderRogue]

Yeah I use a Mitey Vac too. They work great and so does clamping the lever hard overnight. I also take the handle of a screwdriver and tap the brake line(s) from the bottom up. It helps get those little clingy bubbles to release. Odd it started after you took it apart to change bars. Are you sure it's back together correctly? Getting enough travel on the MC Piston?

 

[biscuit]

Take a look at the bottom of the master cylinder : there’s a tiny little hole to allow fluid to flow. WITHOUT enlarging it, make sure it’s clear.
Also ensure you rebuilt the M/C piston correctly- that the seal and piston lip is in the right orientation. Get a schematic from somewhere.- your manual; the Internet; wherever. But check it.
I’d suggest you rebuild the brake calliper(s) with new pistons and seals also. Certainly new seals at the least.

Further: have you ever cleaned your front brake (s)? Road crud and salt and pad dust builds up over time and will actually hinder and prevent your pistons from easily moving back and forth in the calliper(s). They bind up and require cleaning 12 monthly- especially if you live in a winter climate where the roads are salted.
Check there’s no leakage at those 2 funny “rubber and metal” seals where the brake line exits the M/C and heads to the calliper(s). You did replace them, didn’t you? They are air tight seals as well as keeping fluid in.
And you checked they fitted snuggly against the M/C AND the hole in the brake bolt is not blocked?
Now go bleed it.

If you know how to bleed brakes, then after renewing all those components you really should have no issues.
Thunder Rogue’s suggestions (tapping, and lever clamping) are good ones. Use a zippy tie or lots of tape to hold the lever overnight against the brake pressure. -Assuming you’ve got some.
If none of that works, I’d suggest YOU may be the problem. That is not meant to be sarcastic nor demeaning.
Im merely thinking you’re not quite doing it correctly. Such as not holding the lever closed until you nip up the bleeder valve; or not refilling the M/C quickly enough and allowing it to run dry or air to enter.. Or even having the bleed valve open whilst you pump the lever to build pressure. Possibly cracking the bleed valve open too many turns- which allows air in past the threads. Only JUST crack it open to bleed. One quarter of a turn.
Or, as I once discovered, the bleeder valve threads were damaged and allowed air in with it cracked open an EIGHTH of a turn. Could never get pressure with that. Check yours out.

Good luck.

 

[joel]

Here is my thoughts.
The master cylinder builds residual pressure, this keeps the piston returning into the caliper.
Can you dead head the brake line and see what happens? It should become hard after a few pumps with air purged.
Do you have the bike off the kick stand and up level with the handle bars turned so the master cylinder is level?
Also watch the caliper piston to see if it is getting pushed out under pressure and then sucked back in with pressure released?
I have seen when the seal is swelled or stuck on the piston it will pull the piston back into the caliper.
You could put a thin bladed screw driver between the pads and rotor to see if pressure improves if so it's a seal sticking to the piston problem.
Next watch every inch of the brake hose to see if it swells under pressure .
I've found on vehicles these things as well as loose wheel bearings allowing rotor twist and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper creating the need to pump the brakes to get back a normal feeling.