some of the self help articles states that you can't do a bleed test on regulator,mine is an 04 roadking and when i touch 1 lug of reg. i get same voltage as battery,same on other lug
Harley Davidson Community
This is what you would find on the business end of a Single Phase HD regulator after depotting it. Looking at the full wave bridge rectifier as a baseball diamond, you can see the coil of wire that goes from home to second base is your single phase stator. Normally there will be lead wires coming out from home and second base which are going to your two wire stator.
During full output battery charging, the two S4055 scr's will have their gates triggered and will be in conduction. The two shunt S4035 scr's will not be conducting.
When you are perform a bleed test, all 4 scr's will be turned off. Even with the key off, battery power is always connected to first and third base. Third base is positive and first base is negative or ground. Bleed test directions ask you to disconnect the stator, so imagine the stator winding from home to second base is missing.
Now test directions say to clip a test light to frame ground. Then touch the test light to each of the wires at the stator connector (which is actually home & 2nd base). If test light glows, you fail the test. The only way the test light could glow is if either DSEI30 diode was dead shorted. If either DSEI30 was open circuit, the test light would not glow even though the regulator would not work. If either S4055 happens to be "open" or shorted, the test light would not glow but the regulator would also not charge the battery. If either S4035 was shorted, you would still pass the bleed test but the regulator would quickly toast a good stator.
The moral of the story is this. If the regulator fails the bleed test using a test light (not logic level tester), the regulator is positively bad. But pass a bleed test and your regulator could still be bad in many other ways. So keep in mind that many other bad conditions can exist while still passing a bleed test.
